Archive for the ‘Hip Hobbies’ Category

A Novelty Bag

Saturday, October 7th, 2006

novelty bag 1

By Kathleen Binns

This little bag is designed to hold trinkets or odds and ends on a dressing table, but given a ribbon handle would be fine as a party bag. It is made from a small doll. This one is only 3 in. high but a teenage doll would do equally well. The legs might have to be removed as they are taller.

This doll is still complete inside her clothes; the skirt is 3 & 1/2 in. long and the base of the bag 3 & 1/4 in. across.

novelty bag 2

Some stiff material such as glazed cotton or sailcloth is required for the skirt to keep the doll upright. You need only enough to cover a round base separately, then a strip for the skirt long enough to go round the base with a wide wrapover join at the back. Cut out a cardboard base. Cutting your material 1/2 in. larger than this all round run a gathering thread near the edge and draw up over the card. Neaten the inner side with a round of Fablon.

Make two hems up the back of the skirt piece allowing for a good wrapover for fastening. Stitch the bottom of the skirt on to the edge of the base, then turn in and gather the waist and draw up to fit the doll and stitch to the clothing to fix it. Add a little lace apron and poppers behind the skirt and the birthday gift’s ready.

From Dean’s Premier Book for Girls. 1966.

Attractive Serving Boards Are Fashioned From Hardwood Scraps

Sunday, September 10th, 2006

serving boards

Scraps of hardwood that you may have lying around in your basement will provide all the raw material necessary for several cutting boards of attractive design. They can be turned on the lathe or cut into various patterns, such as pear and kidney shapes, or in rectangles, triangles and squares. Sand the board smooth and finish in a natural color, applying two or three coats of clear shellac. Use the underside of the board for slicing, mincing and chopping, and the finished top for serving.

-Taken from the 1955 Edition of Popular Mechanics Do-It-Yourself Encyclopedia.

Knitting Pattern: Fair Isle For A Little Girl

Sunday, July 29th, 2007


(click image for a larger view)

She is just beginning to have a dress sense, and the mixture of colours will appeal to her.



MATERIALS
Four ounces of W. B. Island 2-ply in natural, and one ounce each of the same wool in emerald green, rust and royal blue: a pair each of No. 9 and No. 12 knitting needles ; 9 buttons.


TENSION AND MEASUREMENTS
56 Worked at a tension of 9 stitches to the inch in width on the colour pattern with No. 9 needles, the measuements on the diagram will be attained after light pressing.


ABBREVIATIONS -TO BE READ BEFORE WORKING
Knit plain ; p., purl ; st., stitch ; tog., together ; inc., increase (by working into the back and front of the same st.), dec., decrease (by taking 2 sts. tog.) ; single rib is k. 1 and p. 1 alternately ; s.s, stocking stitch (k. on the right side and p. back) ; n., natural ; e., emerald ; r., rust ; b., blue. Directions in brackets are worked the number of times stated after the last bracket.


MULTI-COLOURED KNITTING
To avoid loose threads at the back of the work the method known as “weaving in” is adopted by all good knitters. For this, the wool out of action is passed once over the working thread, before working each stitch with the second colojur, so that the spare thread is caught at the back of the work with every stitch. If the wool is passed over with a forward movement, then a backward movement, alternately, tangled wool is avoided. Some knitters can work more easily by holding the spare wool to the left over the first finger, as in crochet work, then passing the knitting needle alternately under and over it, when working with the second wool. On the purl side see that the spare colour is kept at the front of the work.


FAIR ISLE FOR A LITTLE GIRL
The Five To Six-Year-Old Will Like Herself In This Happy Little Cardigan




HOW TO READ THE CHART
The instructions are complete and it is not necessary to refer to the chart, but some knitters like to have one as a guide.

The odd-numbered rows represent the k. rows, so are read from right to left. The blank squares are worked in natural, or the background color used.
The even-numbered rows are read from left to right, and are the wrong side of the knitting.
The chart shows two complete repeats of the pattern, with 1 st. over, and the rows begin and end with the same sts. as in the straight pattern at the beginning of the back and both fronts.





TO WORK THE BACK
Begin at the lower edge and using No. 12 needles with n. wool cast on 104 sts.

1ST ROW : K. 2, * p. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat the 1st row 15 times more, increasing 1 st. at the end of the last row. (105 sts.)

Change to No. 9 needles and begin the colour pattern, which is worked in s.s., so only the colour details are given.

1ST ROW: All knit in n.


2ND ROW: K. 1, p. until 1 st. remains, k. 1, all in n.

3RD ROW: Join in e. wool, 3 n., *3 e., 5 n,; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 3 n.

4TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.

5TH ROW: *1 e., 1 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 e.

6TH ROW: As 4th row.

7TH ROW: As 3rd. row. Cut e. wool.

8TH ROW: All n.

9TH ROW: Join in r. wool, * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.

10TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.

11TH ROW: * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 n.

12th ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 r., 2 n. Cut r. wool.

Repeat from the 1st to the 12th row once more, but use blue instead of emerald wool.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Repeat them once more, then from the 1st row to the 20th row again, that is, finishing with the p. row after the 3rd blue stripe.

To Shape The Armholes.-1ST ROW: (21st pattern row): Cast off 6 (1 st. on needle, and likewise after casting off on any row throughout the pattern); 1 n., * 1 r., 3n .; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.

2ND ROW: Cast off 6, * 3 r., 1 n.; repeat from * to end.

3RD ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n.; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.

4TH ROW: * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain 3 n.

Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at both ends of the first row.

7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., *3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 1 n., 2 tog. n.

8TH ROW: 1 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 1 n.

9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., *1 n., 1 e. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog.e.

10TH ROW: * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * omitting 3 n. from the end of last repeat.

11TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 2 e., 5 n., * 3 e., 5 n.; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 e., 2 tog. e.

12TH ROW: All n.

13TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 3 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 2 remain , 2 tog. r.

14TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.

15TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 2 r., * 1 n. 3 r. ; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 n., 2 r., 2 tog. r.

16TH ROW: 1 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 1 r., 1 n.

Work 2 rows all in n., decreasing 1 st. at both ends of 1st row.

19TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.

20TH ROW: 3 n., * 2 b., 1 n., 2 b., 3 n. ;repeat from * to end.

21ST ROW: 2 tog. b., 1 n., * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. b. (73 sts.)

Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern as at the beginning, then work the first 8 rows again, when there will be 5 emerald stripes altogether.

To Slope The Shoulders. -1ST ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 15 times, 1 r., 1 n, turn.
2ND ROW: (3 r., 1 n.) 12 times, 3 r. turn.

3RD ROW: 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) 9 times, 1 n., 2 r., turn.

4TH ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 7 times, 1 r., turn. Cut r. wool.

5TH ROW: K. 29 n., join in r., 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) twice, 1 n., (3 n., 1 r.) 3 times.

Cast off purlwise in n.


(click image for a larger view)


CHOOSE THE COLOURS CAREFULLY
Choosing the colours well will make a great difference to the finished result. The cardigan in our photograph was worked with a natural coloured background and a pattern of royal blue, tan and emerald green.
But how gay it would be for summer with a white backgound and pattern in scarlet, royal blue and emerald.
Or perhaps a grey background with pattern in lemon yellow, larkspur blue and green.


THE LEFT FRONT

Using No. 12 needles within wool cast on 48 sts., and work the same as the back until the armhole is reached. (49 sts.)
To Shape The Armhole, – 1ST ROW: Cast off 6 sts., 1 n., *1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.

2ND ROW: 2 r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.

3RD ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.

4TH ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * to end.

Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at beginning of the 1st row.

7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 3 n.

8TH ROW: 2 n., *2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 1 n. instead of 3 n.

9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., * 1 n., 1 e. ; repeat from * to end.

10TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * omitting 3 n. from the end of last repeat.

12TH ROW: All n.

13TH RW: 2 tog. r., * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * to end.

14TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.

15TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 2 r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.

16TH ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 1 r., 1 n.

Work 2 rows in n., decreasing 1 st. at the beginning of 1st row.

19TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n., ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 b., 3n.

20TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 b., 1 n. 2 b., 3 n. ; repeat from * to end.

21ST ROW: 2. tog. b., * 1 n., 1 b. ; repeat from * to end. (33 sts.)

Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern as at the beginning of the back, then the 1st row of next pattern.

To Shape The Neck. – 2ND PATTERN ROW: Cast off 6 sts, p. to end in n. (27 sts.)

3RD ROW: 3 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n., 2 tog. n.

4TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 2 n.

5TH ROW: (1 e., 1 n.) 11 times, 1 e., 2 tog. n.

6TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 1 e., (1 n., 2 e., 3 n., 2 e.) twice, 1 n., 2 e., 2 n.

7TH ROW: 3 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 2 e., 2 tog. e. (22 sts.)

8TH ROW: All n.

9TH ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 5 times, 1 r., 1 n.
To Slope The Shoulder. – 1ST ROW: P.(3 r., 1 n.) twice, 3 r., turn.

2ND ROW: K. 1 r., 1 n., (3 r., 1 n.) twice, 1 r.

Cast off purlwise.

THE RIGHT FRONT
Work the same as for the back until the 20th row of the 3rd pattern has been finished, then work the 21st pattern row to bring the armhole to the opposite end.

To Shape the Armhole. – 1ST ROW: Cast off 6, * 3 r., 1 n., ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 r.
2ND ROW: *1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog. r.

3RD ROW: * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 n.

Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at the end of the 1st row.

6TH ROW: 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 1 n., 2 tog. n.

7TH ROW: 1 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.

8TH ROW: * e., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.

9TH ROW: * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.

10TH RW: 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 e. 2 tog. e.

11TH ROW: All n.

12TH ROW: * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.

13TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.

14TH ROW: * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 n., 2 r., 2 tog. r.

15T ROW: 1 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 r., 2 n.

Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at end of 1st row.

18TH ROW: 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.

19TH ROW: * 3 n., 2 b., 1 n., 2 b. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 n.

20TH ROW: * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. b. (33 sts.)

Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern at the beginning of the back, then the first 2 rows of next pattern.

To Shape The Neck. -3RD PATTERN ROW : Cast off 6, 4 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n.
4TH ROW: 2 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 2 n., 2 tog. n.

5TH ROW: 2 tog. e., (1 n., 1 e.) 12 times.

6TH ROW: 2 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e. 1 n., 2 e., 2 tog. n.

7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n.

8TH ROW: All n., until 2 remain, 2 tog. n. (22 sts.)

9TH ROW: 1 n., (1 r., 3 n.) 5 times, 1 r.

10TH ROW: 2 r., (1 n., 3 r.) 5 times.

To Slope The Shoulder. – 1ST ROW: K. 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) twice, 1 n., 1 r., turn.

2ND ROW: (P.3 n., 1 r.) twice, 3 n.

Cast off knitwise.


The shape and measurements of the Cardigan Jersey


THE SLEEVES

Using No. 12 needles and n. wool cast on 48 sts., and work 30 rows in a single rib, increasing 1 st. at end of last row. (49 sts.)

Change to No. 9 needles and join in r. wool, and work from the 9th row to the 12th row of straight pattern on the back. Cut r. wool.

Work from the 1st row to the 8th row of pattern as on the back, then continue in pattern and inc. 1 st. at both ends of the next row and every following 6th row for 8 inc. rows, when there will be 65 sts. (Remember to count the increased sts. extra to the pattern as given on the back.)

There will now be one repeat of the pattern more at each end, so work from the 4th row to the 20th row of straight pattern on the back, finishing with the p. row following the 3rd blue stripe from the beginning.

To Shape The Sleeve Top. -1ST ROW (21st Pattern Row) : 2 tog. n., 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 r., 2 n., 2 tog. n.

2ND ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 r., * 1 n., 3 r., repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. n.

Repeat from the 3rd row to the 6th row of armhole shaping on the back.

7TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 5 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.

8TH ROW: 2 e., 3 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 e.

9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 1 n., *1 e., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.

10TH ROW: 1 e. 3 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 e.

11TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 e., 3 n., 2 tog. n.

Repeat from the 12th row to the 18th row of armhole shaping on the back.

19TH ROW: 2 tog. b., 2b., 5 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 b., 2 tog. b.

20TH ROW: 2 tog. n., * 2 b., 3 n., 2 b., 1 n. ; repeat from *, ending the last repeat with 2 tog. n.

21ST ROW: 2 tog. n., * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 b., 2 tog. n.

22ND ROW: 2 tog. b., 3 n., * 2 b., 1 n., 2 b., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain. 2 tog. b.

23RD ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n. * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.

24TH ROW: 2 tog. n., p. in n. until 2 remain, 2 tog. n.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows of sleeve top.

27TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.

28TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., 1 r., * 3 n., 1 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog. n.

Cast off the remaining 25 sts.

Work another sleeve in the same way.

THE NECK-BAND
First join the shoulder seams, beginning at the arm end and taking 1 st. from each side at a time. Using n. wool with No. 12 needles, and holding the work with the right side facing, begin at the corner of the neck edge on the right front and pick up 18 sts. along the neck edge of that front to the shoulder seam, 29 sts. across the back neck edge, and 18 sts. from the neck edge of left front. (65 sts.)

1ST ROW: * K. 1, p. 1; repeat from * until 1 remains, k. 1.

2ND ROW: K. 2, * p. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * until 1 remains, k. 1.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.

Cast off in rib.

THE BUTTONHOLE-BAND
Using n. wool and No. 12 needles cast on 122 sts. and work 4 rows in single rib as on the back.

1ST BUTTONHOLE ROW: K. 2, p. 1, k. 1, * cast off 2 sts., k. 1, (p.1, k. 1) 5 times ; repeat from * 7 times more, cast off 2 sts., k. 1, p. 1, k. 1.

2ND BUTTONHOLE ROW: K. 2, p.1, k. 1, * cast on 2 sts. over those cast off to complete the buttonhole (p.1, k. 1) 6 times ; repeat from * 7 times more, cast on 2 sts., (p. 1, k. 1) twice.

Rib 4 rows more, then cast off.

THE BUTTON-BAND
Using No. 12 needles and n. wool cast on 122 sts. Work 10 rows in rib as on the back, then cast off.

TO MAKE UP THE CARDIGAN
Press the s.s. parts lightly on the wrong side, with a hot iron over a damp cloth and a thick blanket underneath. Set the sleeves into armholes, carefully matching the stripes, and press these seams. Join the sleeve and side seams in one line and press. Sew the font bands in position, spacing the buttonholes evenly (on the right front for a girl and the left front for a boy). Sew on the buttons.

From Australian Women’s Weekly. March 25, 1950.

Little Girl’s Knitted Dress

Sunday, September 24th, 2006

little girls knit dress

There’s an old-world charm about this pretty little dress knitted in feather and fan stitch with a plain yoke and dainty ribbon insertion.

Materials: 4 balls Patons Beehive Baby Wool (this is the only yarn which should be used); 1 pair No. 10 needles; crochet hook; 2 buttons; ribbon.

Measurements: To fit 20in underarm; length, 16in.

Tension: 8 sts to 1 inch.
BACK Cast on 162 sts and work 5 rows in garter st.

Proceed as follows:
** 1st Row: * (K 2 tog) 3 times, (wl fwd, k 1) 6 times, (k 2 tog) 3 times, rep from * to end of row.

2nd Row: Purl.

3rd Row: Knit.
Rep 2nd and 3rd rows once. **

Rep from ** to ** until Back measures 11in ending with right side facing.

Next Row: * K 2 tog, rep to end (81 sts).

Shape Armholes:

Cont in garter st, casting off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec once each end of needle in next and alt rows until 65 sts remain.

Cont until armholes measure 4 1/2 in.

Shape Shoulders:

Cast off 10 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off rem 25 sts.

FRONT

Work as given for Back until armhole shaping has been completed (65 sts).

Make ribbon holes as follows:

**K 3, turn. Work 3 rows of garter st on these 3 sts. **
(Leaving these sts on spare needle.) Rep from ** to ** all along row, ending k 2 instead of k 3.

With right side facing cont in garter st until armholes measure 3in ending with right side facing.

Shape Neck:
K 24, cast off 17 sts, k 24.

Cont on last 24 sts only dec 1 st at neck edge in every row until 20 sts remain.

When armhole measures same as back armhole shape shoulder.

Next Row (side edge):
Cast off 10 sts in next and alt row. Fasten off.

Join yarn to rem sts at neck edge and work to correspond with other side.

Neckband:
Flat seam right shoulder seams tog. With right side of work facing, knit up 72 sts evenly round neck edge and work 5 rows in garter st. Cast off.

Sleeve Bands:
Join left shoulder seam for 3/4in. With right side of work facing knit up 68 sts round armholes and work 5 rows in garter st. Cast off.

TO MAKE UP
Press work on wrong side. Join side seams and neaten all loose threads. Using crochet hook, work 2 rows of dc round left shoulder opening making 2 buttonhole loops on front. Sew on buttons. Press all seams. Thread ribbon as illustrated.

Taken from Woman’s Day. Australia. August 2, 1965

Sewing Fans Go For Chemise In Big Way

Friday, September 22nd, 2006

chemise

SACK SILHOUETTE — Here are two versions of the chemise, made from standard patterns. At left is the bloused-back silhouette in and-white checked linen. At right, an unfitted chemise with hipline emphasis, in bold orange wool plaid. Hats are white felt, designed by Amy.By Dorothy Roe
Associated Press Women’s Editor

All over the country women are sewing chemise dresses like mad.

This is the final test of a new fashion. When the home seamstress accepts it, you can be sure it’s here to stay for a while.

Sales of chemise patterns are booming, says Albert Chaiken, one of the country’s top pattern designers. Within less than two months, a chemise dress made the “top ten” list of best – selling patterns.

“There are several reasons behind this mass acceptance of the new chemise style,” says Chaiken who, as head designer for McCall’s Patterns, has guided home seamstresses through such major style changes as the “new look” of 1947 and the Empire silhouette of 1954. “It’s easy to sew, for one thing, and fitting problems are cut to a minimum. Also, it gives women a chance to try out the new style without ruining their clothing budgets.”

Most pattern companies are including increasing numbers of chemises in their spring lines. The styles are spread through all age groups, including misses, juniors, teens, children and todlers.

Many Versions

The chemise silhouette appears in several versions. Most widely accepted in the loose-fitting shift, tapered at the hem and accented at the neckline. The middy look is part of the same fashion story, and is represented in either the classic two-piece middy or the semi-fitted dress with hipline cuff or belt giving it a two-piece look. Also popular is the bloused – back dress or suit.

“The middy,” says Chaiken, “is unquestionably the easiest of the new styles for the average woman to wear. The bloused back and the shift are good on tall, slender women and on slim junior figures. However, all the new chemise patterns are offered in several versions, and all include a belt for the timid.

Local sewing center experts advise that if you plan to sew a chemise, it’s best to select a true chemise pattern. Don’t try to make a chemise from a standard sheath. There is considerable difference in the cut, in addition to the relaxed waistline. The skirt is tapered toward the hem and style emphasis is placed at the neckline.

How to Fit

In order to insure correct fit, select your proper pattern size, going by the bustline measurement. Although the chemise allows two inches extra at the waistline, the best allowance at the hipline is one inch less. Baste waistline darts in place and try on before stitching, Be sure the widest part of the dart falls at your natural waistline. Even if you are daring enough to try a completely unfitted chemise you’ll find that a suggestion of waistline curve is becoming.

When making the chemise it is particularly important to do all fitting over the foundation garment you will wear with the dress. A longer girdle often is advisable, to give extra control at the thigh area and add sleekness to the silhouette. A rounded bra is important for the gently defined bustline.

Hemline

When marking the hem of the garment, be sure to wear the shoes you plan to wear with it, as heel height makes a difference in the hang of the skirt. The chemise should be considerably shorter than last year’s fashions, coming just below the knee.

The home seamstress will have a wide fabric choice for her new chemise. Soft fabrics such as “jersey sheer wool or silk will require linings in the back of the skirt, to retain the slender look. Crisper fabrics such as linen need no lining.

Chaiken offers a final word of advice: “Pay particular attention to the neckline and shoulder fit. When a dress fits only in that area it must be perfect.”

From The Daily Times News. Burlington, North Carolina. March 18, 1958.

So..umm..lovely… uh.. yeah.

Sunday, March 18th, 2007

I don’t know about you, but I’ve always fancied an embroidered table cloth with a matching embroidered apron to compliment the humongous embroidered peacock picture hanging on my wall. My carefully sculpted and hairsprayed granny bun/afro/helmet coiffure will complete the look that I’m going for! Won’t all my friends coming over for the party be so impressed? That hand on my hip lets them know that I’m SERIOUS about creative stitchery. (Just don’t tell them that I’m taking serveral tastes of the dessert right off the serving platter, without even cleaning my fork between bites! Jean especially gets a bee in her bonnet about that one!):

THE ABC OF EMBROIDERY
CREATIVE STITCHERY, SWEDISH WEAVING & CREWEL STITCHES

TABLE CLOTH

Materials Required:
AMERICAN THREAD
“DAWN” KNITTED WORSTED

1-4 oz. skein each White, Orange, Amber, Tangerine, and Wood Brown
1-1 oz. skein Pink
Embroidery needle
Round Tablecloth – Model shown is 60″ in diameter
1 – Apron hoop, 1 napkin

Tablecloth as shown was embroidered with 4 or 5 basic flowers, the largest being about 6 inches in diameter and the smallest being about 3 inches in diameter. For spacing cut patterns from tissue paper and pin to cloth spacing flowers as desired. Before starting place tablecloth on table and baste alond outside edge of table, then place all patterns below basting line.

Use French knots (page 6) for some centers; satin stitch (page 7) for other centers and whipped spider stitch (page 12) for other centers. Vary the color of all centers. For some flowers use graduated blanket stitch (page 6); some flowers graduated straight stitches (page 5); some graduated long and short stitches (page 11). Outline some flowers with an open blanket stitch (page 6), some with a buttonhole stitch about 1/2 to 1/4 inch from outside edge of flower. Change color combinations throughout all flowers.

Finish edge with border of graduated blanket stitch in Amber, then fill in with a short, a long and a short stitch in Orange spacing stitches evenly all around.

APRON

Take a matching napkin. Work favorite flowers from tablecloth. Cut away one corner. Place apron hoop in position and sew in place to top of apron. Cover hoop with ribbon. Finish edge same as tablecloth.

PEACOCK PICTURE

Materials Required:
AMERICAN THREAD
“DAWN” KNITTED WORSTED

3 – 4 oz. skeins White
2 – 1 oz. skeins Magic Blue and National Blue
1 – 4 oz. skein Leaf Green and Forest Green or
“Aunt Lydia’s” heavy Rug Yarn
9 – 70yd. skeins White or Natural
1 – 70 yd. skein each Turquoise and National Blue
1 – 70 yd. skein Forest Green
2 – 70 yd. skeins Dark Green
Embroidery needle
Frame

1- “AUNT LYDIA’S” PUNCH RUG FOUNDATION #679 (available at NOTION COUNTERS or send $1.50 to AMERICAN THREAD at 90 Park Avenue, New York, New York 10016, Dept. 221)

Following colors on rug foundation embroider tail and head feathers in long and short stitches (page 11). Embroider main body section in chain stitches (page 6) with Forest Green or Dark Green. Outline wings in whipped back stitch (page 4) with Leaf Green or Dark Green. Work background in long and short stitches with Magic Blue or Turquoise, then a row of long and short stitches in National Blue.

FINISHING: Stretch and pin to size (page 3). Place over backing and frame.

From American Thread book, The ABC of Embroidery. Star Book No. 221. Circa 1970.