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	<title>Frisky Wife &#187; Cool Threads</title>
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		<title>Knitting Pattern: Fair Isle For A Little Girl</title>
		<link>http://www.friskywife.com/320/knitting-pattern-fair-isle-for-a-little-girl/</link>
		<comments>http://www.friskywife.com/320/knitting-pattern-fair-isle-for-a-little-girl/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jul 2007 07:31:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>frisky1</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cool Threads]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hip Hobbies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kookie Kids]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[(click image for a larger view) She is just beginning to have a dress sense, and the mixture of colours will appeal to her. MATERIALS Four ounces of W. B. Island 2-ply in natural, and one ounce each of the same wool in emerald green, rust and royal blue: a pair each of No. 9 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><center><a href="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/fair-isle-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[320]"><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/fair-isle-1.jpg" /></a></center><br />
<center>(click image for a larger view)</center><br />
<em>She is just beginning to have a dress sense, and the mixture of colours will appeal to her.</em><br />
<br />	<br />
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MATERIALS<br />
<em>Four ounces of W. B. Island 2-ply in natural, and one ounce each of the same wool in emerald green, rust and royal blue: a pair each of No. 9 and No. 12 knitting needles ; 9 buttons.</em><br />
<br />	<br />
TENSION AND MEASUREMENTS<br />
<em>56 Worked at a tension of 9 stitches to the inch in width on the colour pattern with No. 9 needles, the measuements on the diagram will be attained after light pressing.</em><br />
<br />	<br />
ABBREVIATIONS -TO BE READ BEFORE WORKING<br />
<em>Knit plain ; p., purl ; st., stitch ; tog., together ; inc., increase (by working into the back and front of the same st.), dec., decrease (by taking 2 sts. tog.) ; single rib is k. 1 and p. 1 alternately ; s.s, stocking stitch (k. on the right side and p. back) ; n., natural ; e., emerald ; r., rust ; b., blue. Directions in brackets are worked the number of times stated after the last bracket.</em><br />
<br />	<br />
MULTI-COLOURED KNITTING<br />
<em>To avoid loose threads at the back of the work the method known as &#8220;weaving in&#8221; is adopted by all good knitters. For this, the wool out of action is passed once over the working thread, before working each stitch with the second colojur, so that the spare thread is caught at the back of the work with every stitch. If the wool is passed over with a forward movement, then a backward movement, alternately, tangled wool is avoided. Some knitters can work more easily by holding the spare wool to the left over the first finger, as in crochet work, then passing the knitting needle alternately under and over it, when working with the second wool. On the purl side see that the spare colour is kept at the front of the work.</em><br />
<br />	<br />
FAIR ISLE FOR A LITTLE GIRL<br />
<strong>The Five To Six-Year-Old Will Like Herself In This Happy Little Cardigan</strong><br />
<br />	<br />
<center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/how-to-read-chart.jpg"></center><br />
<br />
<em>HOW TO READ THE CHART</em><br />
<em>The instructions are complete and it is not necessary to refer to the chart, but some knitters like to have one as a guide.<br />	<br />
The odd-numbered rows represent the k. rows, so are read from right to left. The blank squares are worked in natural, or the background color used.<br />
The even-numbered rows are read from left to right, and are the wrong side of the knitting.<br />
The chart shows two complete repeats of the pattern, with 1 st. over, and the rows begin and end with the same sts. as in the straight pattern at the beginning of the back and both fronts.</em><br />
<br />
<center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/chart.jpg"></center><br />
<br />	<br />
<strong>TO WORK THE BACK</strong><br />
Begin at the lower edge and using No. 12 needles with n. wool cast on 104 sts.<br />
<br />
1ST ROW : K. 2, * p. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * to end of row.<br />
<br />
Repeat the 1st row 15 times more, increasing 1 st. at the end of the last row. (105 sts.)<br />
<br />
Change to No. 9 needles and begin the colour pattern, which is worked in s.s., so only the colour details are given.<br />
<br />
1ST ROW: All knit in n.<br />
<br />	<br />
2ND ROW: K. 1, p. until 1 st. remains, k. 1, all in n.<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: Join in e. wool, 3 n., *3 e., 5 n,; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 3 n.<br />
<br />
4TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.<br />
<br />
5TH ROW: *1 e., 1 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 e.<br />
<br />
6TH ROW: As 4th row.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: As 3rd. row. Cut e. wool.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: All n.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: Join in r. wool, * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.<br />
<br />
10TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.<br />
<br />
11TH ROW: * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 n.<br />
<br />
12th ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 r., 2 n. Cut r. wool.<br />
<br />
Repeat from the 1st to the 12th row once more, but use blue instead of emerald wool.<br />
<br />
These 24 rows form the pattern. Repeat them once more, then from the 1st row to the 20th row again, that is, finishing with the p. row after the 3rd blue stripe.<br />
<br />
<em>To Shape The Armholes.</em>-1ST ROW: (21st pattern row): Cast off 6 (1 st. on needle, and likewise after casting off on any row throughout the pattern); 1 n., * 1 r., 3n .; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: Cast off 6, * 3 r., 1 n.; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n.; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
4TH ROW: * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain 3 n.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at both ends of the first row.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n.,  *3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 1 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: 1 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 1 n.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., *1 n., 1 e. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog.e.<br />
<br />
10TH ROW: * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * omitting 3 n. from the end of last repeat.<br />
<br />
11TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 2 e., 5 n., * 3 e., 5 n.; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 e., 2 tog. e.<br />
<br />
12TH ROW: All n.<br />
<br />
13TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 3 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 2 remain , 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
14TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.<br />
<br />
15TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 2 r., * 1 n. 3 r. ; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 n., 2 r., 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
16TH ROW: 1 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 1 r., 1 n.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows all in n., decreasing 1 st. at both ends of 1st row.<br />
<br />
19TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
20TH ROW: 3 n., * 2 b., 1 n., 2 b., 3 n. ;repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
21ST ROW: 2 tog. b., 1 n., * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. b. (73 sts.)<br />
<br />
Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern as at the beginning, then work the first 8 rows again, when there will be 5 emerald stripes altogether.<br />
<br />
<em>To Slope The Shoulders.</em> -1ST ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 15 times, 1 r., 1 n, turn.<br />
2ND ROW: (3 r., 1 n.) 12 times, 3 r. turn.<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) 9 times, 1 n., 2 r., turn.<br />
<br />
4TH ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 7 times, 1 r., turn. Cut r. wool.<br />
<br />
5TH ROW: K. 29 n., join in r., 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) twice, 1 n., (3 n., 1 r.) 3 times.<br />
<br />
Cast off purlwise in n.<br />
<br />
<center><a href="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/choose-colours-carefully-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[320]"><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/choose-colours-carefully-1.jpg" /></a></center><br />
<center>(click image for a larger view)</center><br />
<br />
CHOOSE THE COLOURS CAREFULLY<br />
<em>Choosing the colours well will make a great difference to the finished result. The cardigan in our photograph was worked with a natural coloured background and a pattern of royal blue, tan and emerald green.<br />
But how gay it would be for summer with a white backgound and pattern in scarlet, royal blue and emerald.<br />
Or perhaps a grey background with pattern in lemon yellow, larkspur blue and green.</em><br />
<br />
<strong>THE LEFT FRONT</strong><br />
<br />
Using No. 12 needles within wool cast on 48 sts., and work the same as the back until the armhole is reached. (49 sts.) <br />
<em>To Shape The Armhole</em>, &#8211; 1ST ROW: Cast off 6 sts., 1 n., *1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 r.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: 2 r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
4TH ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at beginning of the 1st row.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 3 n.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: 2 n., *2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 1 n. instead of 3 n.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., * 1 n., 1 e. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
10TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * omitting 3 n. from the end of last repeat.<br />
<br />
12TH ROW: All n.<br />
<br />
13TH RW: 2 tog. r., * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
14TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.<br />
<br />
15TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 2 r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
16TH ROW: 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 1 r., 1 n.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows in n., decreasing 1 st. at the beginning of 1st row.<br />
<br />
19TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n., ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 b., 3n.<br />
<br />
20TH ROW: 2 n., * 2 b., 1 n. 2 b., 3 n. ; repeat from * to end.<br />
<br />
21ST ROW: 2. tog. b., * 1 n., 1 b. ; repeat from * to end. (33 sts.)<br />
<br />
Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern as at the beginning of the back, then the 1st row of next pattern.<br />
<br />
<em>To Shape The Neck</em>. &#8211; 2ND PATTERN ROW: Cast off 6 sts, p. to end in n. (27 sts.)<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: 3 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
4TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 2 n.<br />
<br />
5TH ROW: (1 e., 1 n.) 11 times, 1 e., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
6TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 1 e., (1 n., 2 e., 3 n., 2 e.) twice, 1 n., 2 e., 2 n.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 3 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 2 e., 2 tog. e. (22 sts.)<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: All n.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: (1 r., 3 n.) 5 times, 1 r., 1 n.<br />
<em>To Slope The Shoulder</em>. &#8211; 1ST ROW: P.(3 r., 1 n.) twice, 3 r., turn.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: K. 1 r., 1 n., (3 r., 1 n.) twice, 1 r.<br />
<br />
Cast off purlwise.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE RIGHT FRONT</strong><br />
Work the same as for the back until the 20th row of the 3rd pattern has been finished, then work the 21st pattern row to bring the armhole to the opposite end.<br />
<br />
<em>To Shape the Armhole</em>. &#8211; 1ST ROW: Cast off 6, * 3 r., 1 n., ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 r.<br />
2ND ROW: *1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
3RD ROW: * 3 n., 1 r. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 n.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at the <em>end</em> of the 1st row.<br />
<br />
6TH ROW: 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 6 remain, 3 e., 1 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 1 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: * e., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * ending the last repeat with 2 n.<br />
<br />
10TH RW: 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 e. 2 tog. e.<br />
<br />
11TH ROW: All n.<br />
<br />
12TH ROW: * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
13TH ROW: 2 r., * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 r.<br />
<br />
14TH ROW: * 1 n., 3 r. ; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 n., 2 r., 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
15T ROW: 1 n., * 1 r., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 r., 2 n.<br />
<br />
Work 2 rows all n., decreasing 1 st. at end of 1st row.<br />
<br />
18TH ROW: 3 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
19TH ROW: * 3 n., 2 b., 1 n., 2 b. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 n.<br />
<br />
20TH ROW: * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. b. (33 sts.)<br />
<br />
Work from the 18th row to the 24th row of straight pattern at the beginning of the back, then the first 2 rows of next pattern.<br />
<br />
<em>To Shape The Neck</em>. -3RD PATTERN ROW : Cast off 6, 4 n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n.<br />
4TH ROW: 2 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 2 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
5TH ROW: 2 tog. e., (1 n., 1 e.) 12 times.<br />
<br />
6TH ROW: 2 n., (2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.) twice, 2 e. 1 n., 2 e., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 2 tog. n., (3 e., 5 n.) twice, 3 e., 3 n.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: All n., until 2 remain, 2 tog. n. (22 sts.)<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: 1 n., (1 r., 3 n.) 5 times, 1 r.<br />
<br />
10TH ROW: 2 r., (1 n., 3 r.) 5 times.<br />
<br />
<em>To Slope The Shoulder</em>. &#8211; 1ST ROW: K. 1 r., (1 n., 3 r.) twice, 1 n., 1 r., turn.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: (P.3 n., 1 r.) twice, 3 n.<br />
<br />
Cast off knitwise.<br />
<br />
<center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/shape-measurements-jersey.jpg"></center><br />
<center><strong>The shape and measurements of the Cardigan Jersey</strong></center><br />
<br />
<strong>THE SLEEVES</strong><br />
<br />
Using No. 12 needles and n. wool cast on 48 sts., and work 30 rows in a single rib, increasing 1 st. at end of last row. (49 sts.)<br />
<br />
Change to No. 9 needles and join in r. wool, and work from the 9th row to the 12th row of straight pattern on the back. Cut r. wool.<br />
<br />
Work from the 1st row to the 8th row of pattern as on the back, then continue in pattern and inc. 1 st. at both ends of the next row and every following 6th row for 8 inc. rows, when there will be 65 sts. (Remember to count the increased sts. extra to the pattern as given on the back.)<br />
<br />
There will now be one repeat of the pattern more at each end, so work from the 4th row to the 20th row of straight pattern on the back, finishing with the p. row following the 3rd blue stripe from the beginning.<br />
<br />
<em>To Shape The Sleeve Top</em>. -1ST ROW (21st Pattern Row) : 2 tog. n., 2 n., * 1 r., 3 n.; repeat from * until 5 remain, 1 r., 2 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 r., * 1 n., 3 r., repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
Repeat from the 3rd row to the 6th row of armhole shaping on the back.<br />
<br />
7TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 5 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.<br />
<br />
8TH ROW: 2 e., 3 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 e.<br />
<br />
9TH ROW: 2 tog. e., 1 n., *1 e., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. e.<br />
<br />
10TH ROW: 1 e. 3 n., * 2 e., 1 n., 2 e., 3 n.; repeat from * until 1 remains, 1 e.<br />
<br />
11TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n., * 3 e., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 e., 3 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
Repeat from the 12th row to the 18th row of armhole shaping on the back.<br />
<br />
19TH ROW: 2 tog. b., 2b., 5 n., * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 4 remain, 2 b., 2 tog. b.<br />
<br />
20TH ROW: 2 tog. n., * 2 b., 3 n., 2 b., 1 n. ; repeat from *, ending the last repeat with 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
21ST ROW: 2 tog. n., * 1 b., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 b., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
22ND ROW: 2 tog. b., 3 n., * 2 b., 1 n., 2 b., 3 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain. 2 tog. b.<br />
<br />
23RD ROW: 2 tog. n., 3 n. * 3 b., 5 n. ; repeat from * until 8 remain, 3 b., 3 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
24TH ROW: 2 tog. n., p. in n. until 2 remain, 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows of sleeve top.<br />
<br />
27TH ROW: 2 tog. r., 1 n., * 3 r., 1 n. ; repeat from * until 2 remain, 2 tog. r.<br />
<br />
28TH ROW: 2 tog. n., 1 n., 1 r., * 3 n., 1 r.; repeat from * until 3 remain, 1 n., 2 tog. n.<br />
<br />
Cast off the remaining 25 sts.<br />
<br />
Work another sleeve in the same way.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE NECK-BAND</strong><br />
First join the shoulder seams, beginning at the arm end and taking 1 st. from each side at a time. Using n. wool with No. 12 needles, and holding the work with the right side facing, begin at the corner of the neck edge on the right front and pick up 18 sts. along the neck edge of that front to the shoulder seam, 29 sts. across the back neck edge, and 18 sts. from the neck edge of left front. (65 sts.)<br />
<br />
1ST ROW: * K. 1, p. 1; repeat from * until 1 remains, k. 1.<br />
<br />
2ND ROW: K. 2, * p. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * until 1 remains, k. 1.<br />
<br />
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more, then the 1st row again.<br />
<br />
Cast off in rib.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE BUTTONHOLE-BAND</strong><br />
Using n. wool and No. 12 needles cast on 122 sts. and work 4 rows in single rib as on the back.<br />
<br />
1ST BUTTONHOLE ROW: K. 2, p. 1, k. 1, * cast off 2 sts., k. 1, (p.1, k. 1) 5 times ; repeat from * 7 times more, cast off 2 sts.,  k. 1, p. 1, k. 1.<br />
<br />
2ND BUTTONHOLE ROW:  K. 2, p.1, k. 1, * cast on 2 sts. over those cast off to complete the buttonhole (p.1, k. 1) 6 times ; repeat from * 7 times more, cast on 2 sts., (p. 1, k. 1) twice.<br />
<br />
Rib 4 rows more, then cast off.<br />
<br />
<strong>THE BUTTON-BAND</strong><br />
Using No. 12 needles and n. wool cast on 122 sts. Work 10 rows in rib as on the back, then cast off.<br />
<br />
<strong> TO MAKE UP THE CARDIGAN</strong><br />
Press the s.s. parts lightly on the wrong side, with a hot iron over a damp cloth and a thick blanket underneath. Set the sleeves into armholes, carefully matching the stripes, and press these seams. Join the sleeve and side seams in one line and press. Sew the font bands in position, spacing the buttonholes evenly (on the right front for a girl and the left front for a boy). Sew on the buttons.</p>
<p><strong>From Australian <em>Women&#8217;s Weekly</em>. March 25, 1950.</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Confusion Abounds As Lacquered Cane Pronounced &#8220;Softly Feminine&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://www.friskywife.com/312/confusion-abounds-as-lacquered-cane-pronounced-softly-feminine/</link>
		<comments>http://www.friskywife.com/312/confusion-abounds-as-lacquered-cane-pronounced-softly-feminine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jul 2007 13:48:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>frisky1</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cool Threads]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Whew&#8230;All I can say is that women must have been pretty brave back then, to go out in public wearing these concoctions! One hat looks like my grandmother&#8217;s flowered swimming cap without the chin strap, another like it was constructed from a cane chair (or lattice fence) stolen from the set of &#8220;Fantasy Island&#8221; ..and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Whew&#8230;All I can say is that women must have been pretty brave back then, to go out in public wearing these concoctions!<br />
<br />
One hat looks like my grandmother&#8217;s flowered swimming cap without the chin strap, another like it was constructed from a cane chair (or lattice fence) stolen from the set of <a href="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/fantasy-island.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox[312]">&#8220;Fantasy Island&#8221;</a> ..and ..hang on..is that Barbara Streisand in the second shot?!</p>
<p><center>SUMMER FORECASTS</center></p>
<p><center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/new-hats-1.jpg"></center></p>
<p><em>Two organza scarf hats, both rose-trimmed, from the Harbig collection. Both cost approximately 25/ and will be available at leading stores.</em></p>
<p>THE NEW HATS ARE SOFTLY FEMININE</p>
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ACCORDING to Sydney milliner Bill McCowage, Australian hat styles for the coming spring and summer will combine all the best ideas from London, Paris and Rome.<br />
<br />
London favours snoods worn beneath another hat and also &#8220;baby bonnets&#8221;-made from soft fabrics and<br />
flowers.<br />
<br />
Paris presents an abundance of imaginative and often exotic ideas which don&#8217;t conform with any one &#8220;line,&#8221; but the dominant theme is soft and feminine, influenced by &#8220;My Fair Lady.&#8221;<br />
<br />
Two styles stand out -the Breton and the turban, and combinations of both.<br />
<br />
Paris likes the head to be neat and not too gaudy.<br />
Materials range from very soft chiffon and organza to fine, frequently transparent straws.<br />
<br />
A novel idea from Paris, London and Rome is the use of chair cane for hats-introduced to Sydney by Mr McCowage.<br />
<br />
<center><a href="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/new-hats-2b.jpg" rel="lightbox[312]"><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/new-hats-2.jpg" /></a></center><br />
<center>(click image for a larger view&#8230; if you&#8217;re feeling brave.)</center><br />
<em><strong>Three hats from Sydney milliner, Bill McCowage, from left: Organdie halo toque, lacquered cane breton, scarfed pill-box.</strong></em><br />
<br />
To sum up: The new season&#8217;s hats are determined to be young and light; the blown-out crowns put the hair in a glass case without flattening it.<br />
<br />
Colours are spring-like. The pink-red range goes from pale sweet pea tonings up to the red of old roses. There is a lot of navy, teamed with white, and some black-as always. The soft neutrals range from pale toast shades to burnt toast, teamed with white. We&#8217;ll also see a variety of blues and aquas.</p>
<p><strong>From <em>Womans Day</em>. Australia. August 2, 1965.</strong></p>
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		<title>Dainty Handmade Pretties</title>
		<link>http://www.friskywife.com/255/dainty-handmade-pretties/</link>
		<comments>http://www.friskywife.com/255/dainty-handmade-pretties/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:26:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>frisky1</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cool Threads]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[(click image for a larger view) Dainty Handmade Pretties Two Pretty Designs &#8211; A nightdress and Slip and Knicker Set The Pattern Address ALL ORDERS for this Paper Pattern must be addressed to WOMAN&#8217;S WEEKLY Paper Pattern Department, 21, Whitefriars Street, London E.C.4. Write, giving the Pattern Number, and please don&#8217;t forget to state the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><center><a href="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/dainty-handmade-pretties-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[255]"><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/dainty-handmade-pretties-1.jpg" /></a></center><br />
<center>(click image for a larger view)</center></p>
<p>Dainty Handmade Pretties </p>
<p><strong>Two Pretty Designs &#8211; A nightdress and Slip and Knicker Set</strong></p>
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<p>The Pattern Address</p>
<p><strong>ALL ORDERS for this Paper Pattern must be addressed to WOMAN&#8217;S WEEKLY Paper Pattern Department, 21, Whitefriars Street, London E.C.4.</p>
<p>Write, giving the Pattern Number, and please don&#8217;t forget to state the bust size required.</p>
<p>South African and Rhodesian readers should write to &#8220;South African Woman&#8217;s Weekly,&#8221; P.O. Box 950, Durban, to obtain the pattern at the Overseas price. Other Empire readers can obtain the price. Other Empire livery of this pattern by mail from our London Pattern Department at the marked Overseas price.</strong></p>
<p>BESTWAY PATTERN No. C628<br />
Price 1/10<br />
(By Post 1/11)<br />
Overseas 2/-</p>
<p>ROUNDED bustline, well-fitted waist and swinging, frill-edged skirt &#8211; this slip, worn under a dress, has all the necessary details to assure a pretty line to the figure. The yoke fitted knickers, you will notice, are frill edged to match the slip.</p>
<p><em>To make the set you will need 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 yards of 36-inch wide lingerie fabric.</em></p>
<p><em>Here you see the pattern shape of the slip and knickers, cut out and placed in the order the pieces go together.</em></p>
<p><center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/detail-patternc628.jpg"></center></p>
<p><em>Suitable for plain or patterned lingerie material.</em></p>
<p>BESTWAY PATTERN No. C736<br />
Price 1/10<br />
(By Post 1/11)<br />
Overseas 2/-</p>
<p>IN rose-bud patterned lingere crÃªpe, for the summertime, or in daintily printed Dayella for when nights call for something warm, here is a nightdress that is most attractive to wear and yet very easy to make and launder. It has a sweetheart neckline and a group of tiny tucks at centre front waist, from which the strap ends come to tie at the back.</p>
<p>It is an economical design, too, for it only takes 3 to 3 1/4 yards of 36-inch wide material.</p>
<p><em>See how simply the nightdress is cut. It is on the straight of the material so you can be sure it will keep its shape well.</em></p>
<p><center><img src="http://www.friskywife.com/wp-content/images/2007/07/detail-patternc736.jpg"></center></p>
<p><em>The patterns of both of these designs can be had in 32, 34, 36, 38 and 40-inch bust sizes.</em></p>
<p><strong>From <em>Woman&#8217;s Weekly</em>, Australia.  September 10, 1949.</strong></p>
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