SACK SILHOUETTE — Here are two versions of the chemise, made from standard patterns. At left is the bloused-back silhouette in and-white checked linen. At right, an unfitted chemise with hipline emphasis, in bold orange wool plaid. Hats are white felt, designed by Amy.By Dorothy Roe
Associated Press Women’s Editor
All over the country women are sewing chemise dresses like mad.
This is the final test of a new fashion. When the home seamstress accepts it, you can be sure it’s here to stay for a while.
Sales of chemise patterns are booming, says Albert Chaiken, one of the country’s top pattern designers. Within less than two months, a chemise dress made the “top ten” list of best – selling patterns.
“There are several reasons behind this mass acceptance of the new chemise style,” says Chaiken who, as head designer for McCall’s Patterns, has guided home seamstresses through such major style changes as the “new look” of 1947 and the Empire silhouette of 1954. “It’s easy to sew, for one thing, and fitting problems are cut to a minimum. Also, it gives women a chance to try out the new style without ruining their clothing budgets.”
Most pattern companies are including increasing numbers of chemises in their spring lines. The styles are spread through all age groups, including misses, juniors, teens, children and todlers.
Many Versions
The chemise silhouette appears in several versions. Most widely accepted in the loose-fitting shift, tapered at the hem and accented at the neckline. The middy look is part of the same fashion story, and is represented in either the classic two-piece middy or the semi-fitted dress with hipline cuff or belt giving it a two-piece look. Also popular is the bloused – back dress or suit.
“The middy,” says Chaiken, “is unquestionably the easiest of the new styles for the average woman to wear. The bloused back and the shift are good on tall, slender women and on slim junior figures. However, all the new chemise patterns are offered in several versions, and all include a belt for the timid.
Local sewing center experts advise that if you plan to sew a chemise, it’s best to select a true chemise pattern. Don’t try to make a chemise from a standard sheath. There is considerable difference in the cut, in addition to the relaxed waistline. The skirt is tapered toward the hem and style emphasis is placed at the neckline.
How to Fit
In order to insure correct fit, select your proper pattern size, going by the bustline measurement. Although the chemise allows two inches extra at the waistline, the best allowance at the hipline is one inch less. Baste waistline darts in place and try on before stitching, Be sure the widest part of the dart falls at your natural waistline. Even if you are daring enough to try a completely unfitted chemise you’ll find that a suggestion of waistline curve is becoming.
When making the chemise it is particularly important to do all fitting over the foundation garment you will wear with the dress. A longer girdle often is advisable, to give extra control at the thigh area and add sleekness to the silhouette. A rounded bra is important for the gently defined bustline.
Hemline
When marking the hem of the garment, be sure to wear the shoes you plan to wear with it, as heel height makes a difference in the hang of the skirt. The chemise should be considerably shorter than last year’s fashions, coming just below the knee.
The home seamstress will have a wide fabric choice for her new chemise. Soft fabrics such as “jersey sheer wool or silk will require linings in the back of the skirt, to retain the slender look. Crisper fabrics such as linen need no lining.
Chaiken offers a final word of advice: “Pay particular attention to the neckline and shoulder fit. When a dress fits only in that area it must be perfect.”
From The Daily Times News. Burlington, North Carolina. March 18, 1958.